Mexico was full of fresh fish, seafood, and good drinks, for me. I'm not a huge meat eater, but I do love fish, and I ate a lot of it. Shrimp, octopus, crab. Oh, the crab I had on the first evening, split in half in a Mexican Fisherman's soup. Oooooooo.
One particular night there was a whole red snapper on the menu at a small place in San Jose del Cabos. The grill man stood alone in the center of an open sky courtyard, raised above us by a step or two. The evening sky was a gorgeous array of color, the lights from the balconies from the upper story of the restaurant twinkling down...and I ordered the fish. Someone at my table saw an absolutely huge whole fish placed on the grill, and I didn't think it could be mine, but in the end, it was. Oh, so crusted and gorgeous it was, a whole fish that I could in no way finish. Everything seemed to be wonderful, from the mango daquiris to the flash fried artichoke hearts that my father had as an appetizer. The Boy had a wonderful meat dish, and we all had the crispy fried carrot sticks. I dug into the fish on top, eating what I could until most of the spine was revealed. I lifted it out with the head still attached and folded it over onto the waiting plate the server had given me for my bones. My mother was slightly wide-eyed, we certainly never had whole fish at home, only fillets. When I tranferred the fish I popped an eyeball, the warm liquid inside quickly spilling out over my fingers. I decided to comment on this, as a bratty daughter trying to gross out her Mom. I think it sort of worked. Heh. Post fish, I rubbed a lemon slice all over my hands at the Boy's direction, he would be the one dealing with my fishy hands later if I didn't.
It was close to a perfect meal, the sky and Mexican moon overhead, the warm orange and gold colors of the inside of the restaurant, which was not truly an inside, since the sky was our ceiling. The glowing orange candles, the smell of the wood oven, and the wonderful potatoes and fish and everything.My friends and family around the table with me. In my VERY halting Spanish I walked up to the grill man afterwards. "Sir? The very big fish? VERY VERY VERY GOOD! Thank you!" He smiled, and I scooted away to catch up with the other five people whom I had shared this wonderful dinner with.